Popular Herbs

Following is a selection of herbs that can be used for making teas,
culinary purposes, pot-pourris or for decorative drying purposes.


LADY'S MANTLE (Alchemilla mollis) -- This beautiful plant looks
absolutely lovely growing in the garden and is a hardy perennial that
can be propagated by division in the spring or autumn. The flowers can
be preserved with the air-drying method or the glycerine method. They
are very popular in fresh or dried flower bouquets or posies. Small
sprays of the flowers can be pressed for flower work. The leaves, when
applied to the skin, make a great skin tonic after they have been
infused and chilled in the refrigerator. Or, infuse the whole plant and
drink as a medicinal tea to help relieve symptons of diarrhoea or
menopausal discomforts.


WORMWOOD (Artemisia absinthium) or SOUTHERNWOOD (Artemisia abrotanum) --
Both these hardy plants are easy to grow and can be propagated from
cuttings in early autumn. The silvery foliage is very attractive in the
garden and can also be used in fresh flower posies or pressed or dried
flower arrangements. The leaves, when dried, can be used in pot-pourris
or in anti-moth sachets.


RUE (Ruta graveolens) -- A hardy evergreen shrub; propagate by division
in spring or from cuttings in early autumn. For decorative purposes, dry
the seed heads. The leaves can be either pressed or glycerined. Rue
looks very attractive in the garden and is used for fresh
tussie-mussies. It can also be used in small amounts for cooking and
works very well in anti-moth sachets.


COTTON LAVENDER (Santolina chamaecyparissus) -- Another hardy evergreen
shrub that will give some silver color to the borders of a garden.
Propagate from cuttings through the summer and early autumn. One shrub
that is particularly pretty is "Lemon Queen". Rather than the normal
bright yellow color of most other varieties, it has a cream-colored
flower. Another variety worth mentioning is Santolina neapolitana,
because of the very attractive foliage. This herb can be used fresh,
dried or pressed for decorative purposes and is also used in pot-pourris
and anti-moth sachets.


FEVERFEW (Chrysanthemum parthenium) -- A hardy perennial that will seed
itself profusely or cuttings and division can be done also. One variety
in particular that will give a bright color to any garden is "Aureum".
This plant has bright lime-green leaves and when the flowers are dried,
they can be used in pot-pourris. The leaves may be infused for tea and
may help migraine sufferers.


HOP (Humulus lupulus) -- This is a hardy and beautiful climbing plant
when trailing up a fence, garden arbor or any other form. The flowers
and leaves are used in arrangements, garlands or swags and the female
flowers for making beer. Pillows made of Hop are also considered to aid
in sleeping. It is also said that tea made from the infusion of the
flowers and a little honey has a calming effect and helps with hangovers.


HEATHER (Calluna vulgaris) -- A hardy shrub requiring very little
maintenance and is especially pretty in the garden when they flower.
Heather can be dried but is much better when preserved in glycerine.
Useful in dried decorative arrangements or pot-pourris. The young
heather tips can be infused for a tea and may be helpful for skin or
complexion problems.


CLOVE PINK (Dianthus caryophyllus) -- A perennial but will be
short-lived where there are fierce frosts. Propagate from stem cuttings
taken in the spring. Although there are many other varieties, "Doris"
has a lovely perfume. Preserve flowers in silica gel for decorations or
pot-pourris or air dry for arrangements. The flowers are great for
making floral vinegars, jams or wines and can be infused in wine as a
nerve tonic.


LAVENDER (Lavandula angustifolia) -- A hardy evergreen shrub that is a
must for every garden and is at its best when flowering. Easily
propagated from stem cuttings in spring or autumn. There are many types
to choose from. "Hidcote" is a dark purple variety with "Alba" being
white in contrast. Another variety, having interesting shapes, is French
lavender (Lavandula stoecbas). Lavender has a great many uses. For
instance, in the kitchen for lavender vinegars, oils and mustards, in
pot-pourris and sachets. The oil is a very good antidote for insect
bites, stings and burns. Add a few drops to your bathwater and have a
relaxing experience.


BORAGE (Borago officinalis) -- A hardy annual that self-seeds but may
have to grow new plants each year. You may press the flowers but the
leaves do not dry very well. Crystallize the flowers for cake decorating
and try mixing the leaves in soft cheeses or for decoration of food
dishes.


MINT (Mentha) -- There are a large variety of mints, all of which are
hardy perennials. They are propagated from root division or cuttings and
will take over your garden. It is suggested that they be planted in pots
or bags that have been sunken into the earth in order to contain their
roots. Mint is most popular in the kitchen for jams and sauces as an
accompaniment for roast lamb. Also used to flavor potatoes, carrots and
peas. Teas made from mint have a very relaxing effect and can be used to
help relieve colds. Use as a hair rinse to relax the scalp or in
pilliows. Some of the more common mints are peppermint, spearmint,
applemint, pennyroyal and lemon balm. All can be used in herbal posies.


ROSEMARY (Rosmarinus officinalis) -- A hardy evergreen perennial that
likes a sunny spot and can be propagated from cuttings. Also best for
culinary uses especially with lamb, pork or vegetables. Use in
pot-pourris or infused in tea to help digestion or use in the bathwater
for an invigorating effect. Oil of rosemary, when diluted, can be used
as a final hair rinse. Rosemary turns a greyish color when glycerined.


COSTMARY or ALECOST (Chrysanthemum balsamita) -- A hardy perennial that
likes full sun. Divide in spring or autumn. This was once used in beer
but now it has become more popular for use in flavoring vegetables,
poultry or wild game. Used in pot-pourris, is an insect repellent and
will add fragrance to your wash water or linens.


THYME (Thymus) -- An evergreen shrub poropagated from cuttings or seed.
Use in fresh posies for their aroma or for culinary purposes. Also used
as a soothing tea for chest pains or as an aid for sleeping. When dried,
can be used in pot-pourris, as a facial steam for clear complexions, in
stocks, marinades and stuffings.


ROSE (Rosa) -- Hardy shrubs bought as plants or propagated from
curttings in the autumn. There are many very beautiful colors and
varieties and a must for every garden. Use in fresh or dried
arrangements or pot-pourris. Petals can be used in salads or
crystallized for decorations. The hips are used in teas, wines, cordials
and jams or a tonic called "Rosewater" which aids dry and mature skins.


LEMON VERBENA (Aloysia triphylla) -- A half hardy shrub but frosts will
kill it in winter if not protected in a greenhouse. Take dry cuttings in
spring. Add dried leaves to pot-pourris or for adding fragrance to
clothing drawers. Great in teas, hot or iced, and finger bowls. Soak
pads in the teas and place on eyes to help reduce puffiness. Also helps
in bronchial and nasal congestion. Mix it in your favorite apple jelly
recipe for a unique flavor.


FENNEL (Foeniculum vulgaree) -- A hardy perennial divided in the autumn
and seeds itself. Weed out plants when necessary to prevent it from
invading your garden. Do not plant near "dill" as it could
cross-pollinate and ruin the flavor. Air dry flowers or preserve in
glycerine. The flower of the bronze type can be chewed for a breath
sweetener and the seeds and leaves can be used as a facial steam to deep
clean the skin. The teas help digestion and the leaves may be chopped
and sprinkled over vegetables and fish.


BASIL (Ocimum basilicum) -- An annual and is not the easiest herb to
grow and does not respond to overwatering. Best grown in a pot indoors
or a greenhouse, although, I personally have had some good luck growing
it in my herb garden on the south and sunny side of my house. The purple
variety is very pretty in the garden and can be used as part of a dried
herbal wreath or decoration. When made into a tea, it has antiseptic
qualities for aid in relieving nausea and is very well known for its
culinary uses in tomato and garlic dishes. It also makes for a very
refreshing bath.


CAMOMILE (Chamaemelum nobile) -- A hardy evergreen perennial propagated
from cuttings or by division. The double-flowered variety "Flore-pleno",
when dried, is used in decorations. The flowers and leaves are used for
pot-pourris and when infused can be used as a hair lightener. Chamomile
tea is a very good tonic and is said to prevent restlessness and
nightmares. Place tea bags on the eyes to reduce puffiness and lighten
the shadows.


SCENTED GERANIUMS (Pelargonium) -- Evergreen perennials that must be
moved indoors or into a greenhouse during the winter. Take cuttings and
root them in sand. The different varieties and scents include lemon,
orange, rose and peppermint and are all very well used in pot-pourris.
They can also be used for culinary purposes such as in jellies, sorbets
and syrups. Infuse the leaves and put into bath bags for an aromatic
bath.

About the Author

Article written by Carol Miller. For free information on growing and
cultivating various herbs and vegetables, please visit www.bricabrackorner.com/Vegetables
and Herbs.htm.

Harvesting Herbs

When herbs are in full leaf and the flowers have formed but are not yet open,
is the best time to gather them. Choose a bright morning, when the dew has
dried, but the sun is not yet fully out. When gathering your herbs, they must
be handled very carefully so as not to bruise the stems and flowers.

The aim is to pick and dry your herbs as quickly as possible, so don't pick
more than you can dry at any one time. This is done, in order to keep as much
of their flavour and colour as possible.

Ideally, herbs should be dried slowly. A dried leaf should be brittle, but
still green. Drying herbs can take 2-3 days, or up to a week or more, depending
on the size and thickness of the herb.

Try not to wash the herbs before drying. Pick an area that is warm, airy and
dry, and away from direct light. Don't dry herbs in the garage or the kitchen,
as the herbs will absorb the fumes.

Bunches of herbs hung to dry should be small ~ about a dozen stems at the most.
Only dry bunches of one type of herb. Secure the bunch with some string or an
elastic band ~ string is better. Tie securely, but not too tight ~ air must be
able to flow through the bunches, or mould will form. Make a loop in the string
and dry the bunches 'heads down'.

You can dry lots of bunches on an old fashioned airer ~ one that can be fixed
to the ceiling and pulled up and down.



Drying Herbs on The Flat

A small amount of herbs spread out between two sheets of kitchen paper on an
oven or cake rack, will dry quite well.


Drying Seeds

Tie the herbs in bunches as described above, but encase the heads in a paper
bag before hanging. This will collect the seeds that dry and fall off.


Drying Roots

Roots should be scrubbed, peeled and cut into small sections. Dry them in an
oven heated to about 50 C/120 F. They will need to be turned every now and
then. They are dried when they 'snap'.


Drying Herbs Quickly

If you would like to dry your herbs in a few hours, try the oven drying method.


Spread out the herbs in a single layer on a paper covered oven sheet, and place
in an oven turned to it's lowest setting. Leave the door slightly open. Inspect
the herbs after an hour. They should still be green, but brittle.


Dried herbs should be stored in dark, airtight glass jars (green, blue or
brown). If you have only clear jars, line them with brown paper (on the
outside), or keep them in a dark cupboard to stop the light getting to them.
Dried herbs will store well for up to a year, after which time, they should be
thrown out.


Desiccant Drying (for flower arrangements)

Silica gel, builders sand and powdered borax are all suitable desiccant
material. An old shoe box makes a great container. Prepare each flower by
cutting off the stem and replacing it with florists wire pushed through the
centre of the head of the flower.

Place a layer of your chosen desiccant material on the bottom of the box. Place
your flowers on top. Shake some desiccant through the flower and leaves, making
sure it goes between every one. The flowers must not touch each other. Cover
with a layer of desiccant. Make sure it is enough, so that the new layer of
flowers won't be touching the bottom one. Repeat the process, until the box is
almost full. Put on the lid, and store in a warm, dry place.

Inspect after about a week. The flowers and leaves are not ready until they are
crisp. When completely dry, shake off all the desiccant.

The dried flowers and leaves can then be made into beautiful flower
arrangements (not to be eaten!)


Preserving With Glycerine

Large stems of herbs, such as Rosemary, Lavender, Bay and Eucalyptus etc., can
be steeped in a mixture of glycerine and water to preserve them. Hammer the
bottom of the stems, and place the stems in a large jug containing two parts
hot water to one of glycerine ~ enough to cover the bottom 2 inches of stem.

Stand the jug in a warm, light place, and inspect after a day or so. Keep
adding more glycerine and water to keep the stems covered to the required depth
for the next three weeks. When done, cut away the smashed ends and dry off any
excess oil from the leaves and stems. Use in flower decorations (not to be eaten)

Thank you for your added input!!!

No prob!